Sundance Canyon

TRADITIONAL

MAP

There is only one climb in this short, steep-sided canyon which was cut by a large river system that once flowed through it from the upper valley. Most of the cliffs have rotten rock or are broken by ledges but there is one compelling crack line between two overlapping bedding planes at the mouth of the canyon. This is climbed by the old test piece Tourist Attraction which, although neglected for many years, is worthy of a revival. The crack overhangs and slants up to the left at an angle of about 30 degrees. It is undercut for most of its length by a lower, parallel overhang and a fall by either the leader or the second ends in space. From there it is either a prusik back up onto rock or a lower-off into the creek. The climb has a lot of character and atmosphere (see photographs opposite and at the beginning of the chapter) and is well worth a visit for a short day or evening climbing.