Merlin Area

SPORT

MAP

This little wall is nestled down by the creek just west of New River Wall. The route Merlin (5.11d) is commonly used as a warm up for those going to try the classic Sonic Youth (p95), or something harder. However, this wall now has a bouldery test piece of its own, Dragonslayer (5.12d), which is worth the effort. Approach: Approach: Drive 6.0 miles up the canyon and park on the north (right) side of the road. The first wall on the north side of the creek you will see is New River Wall (p94); the next wall west is Merlin Area. After parking, walk towards the tunnel; the approach trail will be on the north side of the road. Take the trail east/downstream past Twitch Rock (p90) and take a trail down a gully to gain the base of the wall.