New River Wall

SPORT

MAP

You like steep hard sport climbing? Well this is the spot for you! This cliff hosts the ultra-classic Sonic Youth (5.13a) and Public Enemy (5.13c), as well as a menagerie of link ups to keep you busy all year long. As a bit of a side note, this wall hosts many, many link ups, the best and least contrived link ups are listed, but many more can be found. Approach: Drive 6.0 miles up the canyon and park on the north (right) side of the road. Look across the creek to find the ominous looking New River Wall. After parking, walk towards the tunnel; the approach trail will be on the north side of the road. Take the trail east/downstream past Twitch Rock (p90) and take a trail down a gully, passing by the base of Merlin Area (p92) to gain a trail towards the creek. Continue for another couple hundred feet to find yourself uphill to the left of the wall where there is a fixed rope in place to get to the base of the cliff. During low water, you can approach it from lower down for an easier hike, or even wade across the creek.