Arrowhead

ICE/MIXED

ALPINE

MAP

Arrowhead (12,645’) is a summit on the Northeast Ridge of McHenrys Peak, in the manner of Spearhead on the North Rib of Chiefs Head Peak. Arrowhead seems to have been named for a dramatic pinnacle, Arrowhead Spire, on its east side that is prominent from the Glacier Gorge Trail below Black Lake. The broad South Face is quite impressive and features an array of great climbs. The smaller South Face Right is cleaved from the Main South Face by the long South Couloir and the right ascending South Ramp. The Northeast Ridge, to the right of Arrowhead Spire, forms a substantial buttress (Point 12387) that has been little explored until recent times, and has the route Ripsaw along its crest. The North Face, above Solitude Lake, features the alpine routes Hourglass Couloir and Sister Sweetly. Except for a single route on Solitude Spire, the north side has not captured the enthusiasm of rock climbers. Any approach to (or descent from) the climbs on Arrowhead made before mid-July will likely require steep snow travel; plan accordingly. Approaches and descents are decribed under each aspect of the peak. Main South Face: The following routes are located on the beautiful wall between the lowpoint in Arrowhead Ridge and the gully left of the summit block (South Couloir). The left side of the wall is continuous with the East Face of McHenrys Peak. The right side forms a rounded buttress and a smaller southeast face above the bottom of the South Ramp. A long, grassy ledge, known as the Access Ledge, runs across the apron of the main wall, about 200 feet above the talus, and serves as the rope up point for routes from Artemis to Arrowplane. Approach: Hike the Glacier Gorge Trail to the northeast end of Black Lake where the outlet passes through some boulders. Cross to the west side and pick up a path that leads through brush and trees to a talus field on the slope west of the lake. Stay right and follow a rough path that climbs along the right edge of a steep, grassy meadow. Scramble over a short rock step, then trend left (south) over grassy slopes and talus until beneath the South Face. The path here is fairly distinct and is marked with cairns. To reach the South Ramp, South Face Right, Arrowhead Spire and the East Buttress, climb a moderate slab at the earliest and easiest point, and continue up a higher talus field toward your objective. To reach the Main South Face, continue west beneath the slabs. Descent: The simplest descent is to rappel from the saddle between Arrowhead and McHenrys Peak. 1.) Traverse about 150 feet past the low point and look for a fixed nut and slings. Rap 190 feet to slings on the sloping ramp of The Shaft. Rappel another 160 feet to the lower-angled slabs below. 2.) Locate slings around a block and fixed nuts near the low point in the ridge crest. Rappel 120 feet to another set of slings around a block. Rapl 200 more feet to the highest of the grassy ledges and walk off. 3.) For routes such as Refugium and Raindance, it is probably easier to descend the South Ramp.