Chiefs Head Peak (13,579’) is located between Pagoda Mountain and McHenrys Peak along the southern rim of Glacier Gorge. The Continental Divide climbs along its northwest ridge to about 13,390 feet (just short of the summit), then cuts back west and south to Mount Alice. The broad north face of Chiefs Head spans more than a mile and rivals the east face of Longs Peak in terms of size. The great wall is divided by a rib (Central Rib) that descends northward to a notch, then rises up to the summit of Spearhead – a dramtic satellite peak that dominates the whole cirque above Black Lake. The wall to the east of the rib is known as the Northeast Face, while the wall to the west is the Northwest Face. Note that both walls actually face north-northeast. All north face routes are steep and serious and should be attempted only by expert climbers. With that said, the moderate east and west sides of Chiefs Head provide fine scrambles. Approach: Follow the approach to Spearhead and then continue with the directions for either the Northeast or Northwest Face to get to your desired objective.