Hallett Peak

TRADITIONAL

ICE/MIXED

MAP

The sharp northern profile of Hallett Peak is a hallmark of Rocky Mountain National Park and is surely among the most photographed features in Colorado. The domed summit sits on the Continental Divide between Chaos Canyon (on the south) and Tyndall Gorge (on the north), and may be reached by an easy hike from the summit of Flattop Mountain. The 1,000-foot North Face towers above Emerald Lake and offers some of the best climbing in RMNP. Deep clefts divide the north face into three distinct facets, or “buttresses,” which are described from east to west. The First Buttress is lower and less continuous than the others, though its routes are quite good. The commanding Second Buttress features the cleanest, sheerest rock, and is easily identified by a long, blunt prow at the junction of its northeast and north planes; the classic Culp-Bossier (5.8) route ascends this exposed prow. The tall and forboding Third Buttress is home to Northcutt-Carter, which was the most popular climb on Hallett Peak, until the first two pitches collapsed in July of 1999. Approach: All routes are approached from the Bear Lake Trailhead. Descent 1: The East Ridge is the best way to get down from the First and Second Buttresses. Hike down the south side of the ridge toward Lake Haiyaha. Stay somewhat close to the ridge crest (on your left). Watch for a series of cairns that lead to a two-bolt anchor with chains at the top of a steep wall. Rappel 75 feet to a grassy ledge below a wide slot. Rap another 75 feet from a slung block. Scramble down the gully, stay right of some trees, and look for a cairn on a big boulder. Drop down to the left and head for Emerald Lake, which you can see through the trees. Scramble down a few short steps and arrive at a little notch, where a talus gully (The Descent Ramp) drops down to the northwest. Go down the gully, and eventually follow a footpath into the talus beneath Hallett Chimney. East Col: After coming down the gully below the second rappel, angle right, and go down the ridge to the East Col, then descend the East Gully. This will require snow travel into mid summer. When the snow has melted, one is confronted by steep, loose talus. Not recommended. Descent 2: For routes on the Third Buttresses, the West Gully (Class 3) provides the fastest descent and least arduous return to the bottom of the north face. To find the top of the gully, hike southwest to the saddle (West Col), just beyond the Third Buttress. Look for a cairn. Head down the steep gully, down climb through some big boulders, then continue down loose talus. After several hundred feet, the gully veers right - do not go this way; instead stay left. There is one more opportunity to go down to the right; avoid this also. Instead, go up to the left and pass through a little notch at the left side of a rock tower. Drop down to the west and gain the talus slope below the north face. Descent 3: It is easy, though much farther, to hike over the summit of Hallett Peak. Generally stay left of the ridge crest and follow the line of least resistance through wind-scoured rock and tundra meadows all the way to the summit. Then go down a path (marked by cairns) to the northwest, and north along the Continental Divide above Tyndall Gorge. Intersect the Flattop Mountain Trail and hike easily down to Bear Lake. Total distance from the saddle above the Third Buttress is about six miles. The terrain and scenery are so magnificent, you won’t even notice that you took the long way home.