Longs Peak - SE Ridge

ALPINE

MAP

Longs Peak is the highest summit in Rocky Mountain National Park, and perhaps the most characteristic landmark in Colorado. Its broad profile and flat summit are visible from points all along the Front Range, though from the southeast only the top can be seen above Mount Meeker. Major Powell and party made the first recorded ascent of Longs Peak in 1868 and named the mountain for Major Stephen Long, who explored the area in the 1820s. This large, complex mountain is impressive from any view, but its most striking aspect is the precipitous east face. More than a half-mile wide and 1,900 feet high, the east face is home to such legendary features (to climbers anyway) as the Diamond, the Diagonal Wall, and Chasm View Wall, and is the premier arena for extreme alpine rock climbing in North America. Other facets of Longs Peak are less well known, though The Keyhole route, which spirals around three quarters of the mountain, is ascended by thousands of people every summer. The Southeast Ridge is the long ridge that runs from the Loft to the summit of Longs Peak. The ridge begins as little more than a hike, but is interrupted about 1,000 feet short of the summit by The Notch, beyond which the ridge crest continues as solid rock to the summit. The following routes are approached from the East Longs Peak Trail and Chasm Lake Trail, with the exception of Keplinger’s Couloir, which is approached from Wild Basin. Be prepared for snow travel until mid July. Approach: Hike the East Longs Peak Trail and the Chasm Lake Trail as required by your objective. Longs Peak may also be reached from the North Longs Peak Trail, the Glacier Gorge Trail and the Sandbeach Lake Trail. Of these, Glacier Gorge is the most practical, and provides a direct, if arduous, approach to the west face of Longs Peak, The Keyhole, and the Keyboard of the Winds. Descent from Summit: 1) The easiest descent from the summit is via The Keyhole. This is the long way around, but can be done safely without a rope. This descent leads to the Boulder Field and the East Longs Peak Trail. Note: an ice axe and mountain boots are recommended if the Trough is filled with snow. 2) The next easiest descent is via Clark’s Arrow, which does not require a rope, but is less easy to follow and requires steep snow travel until mid summer. This descent leads to the Loft, Chasm Meadow, and the Chasm Lake Trail. 3) The most efficient descent is the North Face/Cables route. From the summit of Longs Peak, scramble down the north face to the steep slab just above Chasm View (Class 3). Stay well left (west) of the Diamond and look for a cairn and a large iron eyebolt. This may be reached in a direct line (northwest) from the summit, or more easily by descending the northwest ridge (upper Keyhole Ridge) for several hundred feet, then curving around eastward to the same point. Rappel 150 feet from the eyebolt to steep snow or talus just above Chasm View. It is possible to rappel 75 feet twice using a second eyebolt halfway down. The 150-foot slab may also be downclimbed (5.4, wet or icy). Then scramble down talus to the Boulder Field or return to the Chasm Lake Cirque via the Camel. Note: an ice axe and mountain boots are necessary if the north face is covered with snow. 4) It is simple enough to descend Trough Direct for 3,000 feet into Glacier Gorge, though this is only practical if one began from Glacier Gorge and has transportation at the Glacier GorgeBus Stop, or at Bear Lake.