Mount Meeker

ALPINE

MAP

Mount Meeker (13,911’) is the second highest summit in Rocky Mountain National Park. Its broad-shouldered mass rises immediately to the southeast of Longs Peak, from which it is separated by a high col known as the Loft (13,450’). W. N. Byers and a Mr. Velie climbed Mount Meeker in 1864, during an attempt to climb Longs Peak, and found the names of five previous climbers on the summit. Four years later Byers reached the summit of Longs Peak as a member of Major Powell’s successful party. Mount Meeker provides a long, easy ascent from any aspect, but its vast north face, which having been carved away by ancient glaciers, is quite steep. The most striking feature of the north face is the Flying Buttress, a long, narrow rib that climbs directly to the summit. Several hundred feet to the east, is another large buttress called the East Arête, apparently named for its relationship to the Flying Buttress. Left of the East Arête, the wall diminishes in height and forms a broad concave face, bounded on the east by a prominent buttress. This buttress marks the east side of the north face and forms the right side of the Iron Gates (below), a passageway between two large rock columns, that leads to the east ridge of the mountain. Right of the Flying Buttress is a deep recess and snow couloir, beyond which the wall tapers into the long snowfield below the Loft. Approach: To reach the north face of Mount Meeker, hike the East Longs Peak Trail to the junction at Battle Mountain (2.5 mi). Go left and reach another junction on the Mills Moraine. Go left again and follow the Chasm Lake Trail to its end in a grassy meadow beneath the east buttress of Ships Prow (4.9 mi from the trailhead). A footpath leads south into the basin beneath the north face. Descent 1: From the summit, hike northwest and descend The Loft (p???). It is also possible to descend the East Ridge. Either way, arrive at Chasm Meadow and hike out the East Longs Peak Trail. Descent 2: Make five 100-foot rappels from bolted anchors just left of the top of Main Vein.