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Powell Peak (13,208’) lies along the Continental Divide between McHenrys Peak and Taylor Peak
and is south of Sky Pond. It has an impressive East Face at the head of the valley above Solitude
Lake that curves around toward Point 12836 and Thatchtop Mountain. The North Face, above Sky
Pond, features classic snow and ice climbs, and the now-famous mixed route Vanquished. The east
side is approached from Glacier Gorge, and the north side from Loch Vale. Descent from the summit
is somewhat complicated and has several options (see below).
East Face: The clandestine East Face is not visible from the Glacier Gorge Trail, and first comes
into view after one has made the arduous hike to Shelf Lake. The summit of Arrowhead, however,
offers a dramatic panorama of the entire East Face.
Approach: Hike the Glacier Gorge Trail and Solitude Lake Trail to Shelf Lake (see under Glacier
Gorge). Pass Shelf Lake on the left and Solitude Lake on the right, then continue southwest up the
rugged valley to a dormant glacier below the East Face.
Descent 1: It is possible to return to the base of the wall and the Solitude Lake Trail by down climbing
the Northeast Ridge to the col. Continue northeast a short ways, then scramble down a narrow
gully to the ledges below the East Face. This gully holds snow into late summer.
Descent 2: If the gully is full of snow, and you don’t have appropriate gear, continue northeast
over Point 12836 until it is obvious to descend a broad talus field to Solitude Lake. See the descent
under North Face for other options .