Ships Prow

TRADITIONAL

ICE/MIXED

MAP

The Ships Prow is the long northeast ridge between the north cirque of Mount Meeker and the Chasm Lake Cirque. The ridge begins at 12,200 feet with a commanding buttress above Chasm Meadow that likely inspired the name. The ridge culminates with two small towers (13,340’) above the top of Lambs Slide. Ships Prow has, in the past, received little more than a lingering glance from climbers due to its dwarfed status beneath the towering ramparts of Mount Meeker and Longs Peak. However, in recent times it has been more thoroughly explored, and is graced with a variety of good routes from 5.7 to 5.14. The routes are numbered from left to right, beginning with the upper south face (which actually faces southeast), near the Loft. Approach: Hike the East Longs Peak Trail and the Chasm Lake Trail to Chasm Meadow, then hike west up slabs and benches towards the east shore of Chasm Lake. A short walk over huge boulders leads to the foot of the east buttress. To reach the south face from the end of the Chasm Lake Trail, follow a footpath around to the southwest, as for The Loft, and proceed up snow or talus to the desired objective. Descent 1: Use this for routes that finish atop the south face, or near the south side of the east face. Scramble to a notch in the ridge crest, then descend a boulder- strewn ramp (the Descent Ramp) on the south side, to where it drops off. Rappel 165 feet from slings around a horn, or down climb past a thin spot (low Fifth Class) and continue down the narrow lower section of the ramp. Descent 2: For routes that end near the top of the northeast corner (such as Portal, Gangplank or Keelhaul), down climb the last pitch of Gangplank (5.7, 60') to a ledge with a fixed anchor (stoppers slung with a swaged cable). Rappel 180 feet to a ledge with a large block that is slung with a swaged cable. Or, with a single 200-foot rope, rappel 100 feet to the third belay on Ship of Fools, and then 80 feet to the large block and cable. In either case, rappel 115 feet from the cable to the talus. Note: There is reportedly an anchor of fixed nuts at the top of the northeast buttress that obviates the downclimb from the top of Gangplank. Descent 3: From the top of the east buttress (especially the northeast corner), scramble west, then north down talus to Chasm Lake, and hike back around the north shore. It is possible to skirt along the south shore of the lake beneath the Ships Prow, but this involves a Class 4 traverse called Dunning’s Ledges, and the traverse of a steep snow slope that drops into the lake. Descent 4: It is possible to rappel from the two-bolt anchor at the top of Bologna Pony with two 60-meter ropes. Make certain that your ropes reach the ground!