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Taylor Peak (13,153’) lies west-southwest of Sky Pond and is the highest peak in the cirque. Its
long spine runs along the Continental Divide from the Taylor Glacier Headwall on the south, to
Andrews Pass on the north. The Main East Face rises above a hanging snowfield, and offers routes
of a mixed, mountaineering nature. The snowfield occupies a hanging valley or shelf above a long
southeast-facing cliff that stretches from Sky Pond to the Southeast Couloir. Other features of significance,
such as Point 12829 and the Northeast Spur, are described below.
Approach: All routes on the East Face are accessed from Sky Pond. Routes on the Main East
Face require an ascent of the hanging snowfield. To reach the hanging snowfield and the routes to
its right, hike up talus toward The Petit Grepon, then veer southwest above the cliffband. It is a bit
easier, perhaps, to walk farther around the lake and go up through the first break in the cliff.
Descent: The usual escape from the summit is to hike down the north ridge and descend the
Andrews Glacier. It is more efficient, however, to descend the Southeast Couloir or the Northeast
Couloir and return to Sky Pond. Mountain boots, ice axe and crampons will be useful for either route.
However, the Northeast Couloir may be free of snow by mid summer.