The Diamond

TRADITIONAL

AID CLIMB

MAP

The Diamond is the most famous alpine wall in the United States. Its imposing plane towers above Chasm Lake like a giant movie screen: one million square feet of rock hanging in the sky, upon which one might project his or her dreams and aspirations. The northeast-facing wall lies between 13,000 and 14,000 feet, its zenith a mere 200 feet from the summit of Longs Peak. It is dead vertical to overhanging, remote, cold, and is blind to storms approaching from the west. From Broadway, the wall appears to lean out over the viewer. Once on a climb, the wall may appear to ease back higher up; this is an illusion. To climb any route on the Diamond is a formidable challenge, and should not be taken lightly. The sun leaves the face at about 11:00 AM, after which, the air temperature plummets. Storm gear must be carried, and speed of ascent is essential. The Diamond is host to 39 major routes, most of which have been climbed free. All routes are associated with the long vertical crack systems that characterize Diamond climbing. The rock on the left side of the wall is generally very good, and most of the routes are free climbs; the rock on the right side is steeper, somewhat rotten, and most of the routes are (or were) aid climbs. Some ascents can be completed car-to-car in a long arduous day, but considering the approach distance, altitude, and severity of the climbing, many parties choose to bivouac. Which routes are on the Diamond? This is a tricky question. Viewed from the east, the Diamond appears to begin with Kiener’s on the left, and extends to Hornbein Crack on the right. Yet the Diamond portrays an aura, a sheer plane, an overbearing verticality, a state of mind. Thus considered, the Diamond must begin with The Obelisk on the left and end with Left For Dead on the right. All Diamond routes begin from Broadway (the long ledge that runs across the bottom of the wall) and finish on Table Ledge, upper Kiener’s, or the north face. Bivouac Sites: Impromptu overnight camps are allowed in the boulders below the Mills Glacier, on Broadway, at Chasm View, and in the cirque beneath the north face of Mount Meeker. The Broadway Bivouac Cave is a shallow recess a short ways left of the D1 Pillar, where you can sleep sitting up, and be mostly out of the weather. Another option is to camp at the Boulder Field, and sleep on flat ground in the comfort of a tent. There is also a massive cave near the northwest corner of Chasm Lake known as “The Cave bivy”, which can sleep four people and is sheltered from the weather. Various other nooks and caves exist in the area as well, including the “Hilton bivy”, which is located on the west end of Chasm Lake, and a bit above the lake. The Park Service limits the number of people who can stay overnight here, so plan ahead. Contact the Back Country Office for details and permits. Approach A: Chasm Lake Cirque. This is the most common approach and requires an ascent of Mills Glacier, as well as a route on the Lower East Face to reach Broadway (the North Chimney provides the most expedient passage). Any other route such as Crack of Delight or Grey Pillar will turn the ascent into a grade VI. It is possible to climb Lamb’s Slide and traverse back north along Broadway, but this involves considerable snow travel, unnecessary risk, and is seldom done. The North Chimney is very direct, but involves steep snow travel and exposure to rock fall if parties are above you in the chimney. In late season, most of the chimney is free of snow, but you still have to climb the Mills Glacier and the long tongue of snow that leads up into the North Chimney. This can usually be done without an axe or crampons, but snowspikes on the bottom of your approach shoes is a good idea. Approach B: Chasm View. A less hazardous, but more roundabout way to reach Broadway, is to rappel in from Chasm View. Hike to the Boulder Field and continue south up talus to Chasm View (13,529’), which is the notch at the far right corner of the Diamond. Make three 150-foot rappels to the north end of Broadway. The traverse of Broadway in early summer involves steep snow travel. The traverse at the top of the North Chimney has been the scene of fatalities and should not be underestimated. Descent: From the summit, descend The Cables route. Note: it is not necessary to continue to the summit from the top of the Diamond; just scramble northwest into the broken terrain of the north face and descend to the rappel above Chasm View. If taken by storm on the Diamond and forced to rappel back to Broadway, rappel Crack of Delight. To return to Chasm View from Broadway, climb V-Notch Exit, or take Chasm Cut-Off. These latter options will be of little use in a storm or in the dark. The Diamond Rappel Route: Five long rappels from fixed anchors can be made from the top of D7 (Almost Table Ledge) to Broadway. This descent takes two people about an hour. It is easy to miss these rap stations and go right by them as some are hidden behind arêtes and they come before the end of the ropes. Be sure the first climber to rap takes the rack with them to deal with this unfortunate but not unusual event. 0.) Table Ledge: Rappel 30 feet from a bolt and two fixed pins with chains to Almost Table Ledge. 1.) Rap (slightly left) from two bolts and two fixed pins with chains to the penultimate belay on Soma. 2.) Rappel (slighlty right) from two bolts with chains to another belay on Soma at the D7 Variation. This is slightly right in a shallow, right-facing dihedral, which is easy to miss if you're not looking. 3.) Rap (slightly left) from a chain anchor to a good stance just above the traverse on Hidden Diamond. 4.) Rappel 150 feet from two bolts with over-sized hangers to the first belay station on Curving Vine. 5.) Rappel 150 feet to the ledge at the start of Curving Vine or 190 feet to Broadway. Walk north and down a bit to a bolt anchor with a chain at the top of Crack of Delight (directly below the start to the Casual Route). Make four more long rappels from bolted anchors to Mills Glacier.