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The Petit Grepon is named for The Grepon, a famous spire in the French Alps above Chamonix,
though its shape more resembles the Eiffel Tower in Paris. It is easily identified from Sky Pond by
its narrow blade-like summit and its central position between The Sharkstooth and The Saber. The
South Face is among the most popular climbs in Rocky Mountain National Park and finding yourself
alone here during the summer is highly unlikely; wear a helmet.
Approach: Begin from the Glacier Gorge Trailhead and hike to Sky Pond via the Loch Vale Trail (4.9
miles, p272). The Petit Grepon climbs skyward above the northwest side of the lake. Just hike up
the talus and get out your gear.
Descent 1: Locate two bolts with chains at the northeast corner of the summit. Rappel 140 feet
to a ledge in the gully between The Petit Grepon and The Saber. Walk north along the ledge to the
bottom of a deep chimney and climb to its top. There are two chimneys here, and the left is the
easier (5.3). Unrope and scramble north to the East Col. Descend snow or easy rock into The Gash,
then continue north and pick up the Andrews Glacier Trail. The rappel from the summit can be accomplished
with a single rope: Rappel into the notch between the summit and The Pen Knife. Then
rappel east to the ledge described above, and traverse north to the bottom of the left chimney. This
may require three raps, depending on the length of your rope.
Descent 2: Southeast Descent Gully. To reach Sky Pond from the East Col, descend north to the
highest talus fields of The Gash, then traverse east beneath the backside of The Saber and some
smaller towers to a distinct col (the easterly and larger of the two). Scramble south down the gully,
make a short rappel from a bolt, and continue down to Sky Pond. It is also reasonable to descend
the narrow gully that passes beneath the east side of The Foil, which requires two short rappels to
clear chockstones.
Note: The narrow gullies along the west or east sides of The Petit Grepon are not recommended for descent.
Descent 3: Sky Pond can be reached more directly by a relatively new rappel route down the southeast
side of the Petit. All stations have two-bolt anchors. Two 60-meter ropes are required:
1. Make the usual rappel from the summit, but go past the traverse ledge, and look for a two-bolt
anchor at 160 feet.
2. Rappel 130 feet to a ledge with an anchor.
3. Rappel 100 feet to to a big grassy ledge. Move 50 feet south to another anchor.
4. Rappel down the steep wall and go past the Upper Terrace (at 160’). Stop at a two-bolt station
below a big horn (180’).
5. Rappel 200 feet to the Lower Terrace, and find another two-bolt station near the landing.
6. Rappel 200 feet to the talus at the bottom of the wall.
Note: Other rappel stations exist along this line that allow for the descent to be made with two 165-foot ropes.
Knot the ends of your ropes and look for slung blocks. This is more complicated and is not recommeded.