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Viewed from Sky Pond, The Saber is the long narrow buttress to the right of The Petit Grepon. Viewed
from The Gash, its pyramidal summit is seen to the east of the East Col. The south buttress of The
Saber is one of the major climbing objectives in Rocky Mountain National Park and features steep
climbing, intricate route-finding, and a first ascent-like experience on every route. The Saber takes
its name from the first route on the tower, The Saber (now known as Kor Route), established by
Layton Kor and Dean Moore in 1962.
Approach: Take the Loch Vale Trail to Sky Pond (p272), then hike up talus to the bottom of the
south buttress.
Descent: From the summit, downclimb west, then north into The Gash (Class 4). Once at the level
of the talus field, traverse east just beneath the backside of the Cathedral Spires to a col and descend
a scree gully south to Sky Pond (see Descent 2 under The Petit Grepon, p292). Or hike out
via The Gash.
East Face Rappel Route: From the northeast corner of the first little summit above the south
buttress, make six 150-foot rappels, or four 200-foot rappels and return to Sky Pond. The current
condition of the anchors is not known. Look for slings around blocks and maybe some fixed stations.