Maternal Wall

SPORT

MIXED PRO

MAP

The first route done here, Guy Edwards’ ‘My Mother Loves Me’, was not typical Skaha. The anticipated selection of crimpy incuts was often replaced by strengthsapping open-handers. It took nine years and the arrival of John Fantini to accept that, as with flaring off-widths, the climbing here was actually very good when you got used to the idea. Now there are some of the best routes at Skaha in the 11+/12- range and Maternal Wall is a destination crag for those who climb at that grade. The great climbing is off-set by the desolate surroundings. This part of Shady Canyon was particularly hard hit by the fire in 1994. Many large trees litter the ground and others are still succumbing to damage they received in the fire. An additional problem is that the ground here is damp and mosquitoes can be a problem. Given that, why would you climb here? Well, you come for Banana Bypass and Dreams be Dreams, for long shade on summer mornings, because Screeching or Doctors’ Wall are close by for when the sun comes around, and you can get sit-down rests on many routes. Depending on your strength you may view this as detracting from the quality of the climb or essential to your red-point.