Mount Beerwah

SPORT

TRADITIONAL

MAP

At 556m, Mount Beerwah is the largest of the Glass House Mountains. Formed 26 million years ago, it retains the classic volcano shape and is one of the most prominent mountains in South East Queensland. As you might expect on an old volcano, most of the climbing here is on long black slabs, however the Organ Pipes area is a huge steep amphitheatre which hosts some adventurous aid routes and, more recently, some free climbing.
The rock, like all of the Glass Houses is trachyte, but on Beerwah, it is generally very soft, so don’t wing onto RP’s and expect them to hold, and always check tree belays carefully. A normal trad climbing rack is required including four to six keyhole (removable) hangers. Especially important are medium sized hexes, these often being the only protection that will go into the solution pockets found on many of the routes. Good route finding skills are essential for many of the longer routes. Many of the protection placements are not immediately obvious and good judgement and experience placing natural protection is required. Protection often comes in the form of wires inserted sideways, odd shaped pockets where Tricams may be useful, the occasional bolt and the old adage, “the leader must never fall”.